The owner of Finca Esperanza and Two Birds Coffee talks about the challenges of growing coffee during the climate crisis, the price surge, and what it all means for the future of coffee in Guatemala.
We used to grudgingly turn to coffee alternatives in times of turmoil. Now, however, there is a new breed of venture capital-backed substitutes, with a more antagonistic relationship to coffee.
How is it Friday, again? Already? Shouldn’t there be other days in between?
This whole “life speeding by” thing isn’t fair. When you’re a child time moves at the speed of moss: idly floating down a river on a barge; playing hide and seek in an echoey country mansion; long summer days spent running through wheat fields or whatever.
Adulthood seems to consist of waking up and thinking, “Oh god it’s September already?! I’m not done with summer!” and then getting up and rushing through the week like a startled sheep, only to wake up in a month and think, “Oh god it’s November now!?” and so on until the heat death of the universe, or at least the planet.
Anyway, where were we? Oh yes, coffee.
Indonesian Millennials’ Coffee Craze May Spur Record Consumption - via Bloomberg
Coffee consumption in Indonesia has more than doubled over the past decade, with much of the demand driven by younger people in the majority-Muslim country, for whom alcohol-free zones in which to socialize are of increasing importance.
With the continued slump in coffee prices causing problems for producers worldwide, this increased demand should theoretically tighten supply and lift the C price.
This would be extremely welcome in Indonesia, with Al Jazeera reporting this week that many farmers fear bankruptcy if the coffee market doesn’t pick up.
Department of Coffee plans to revive the brand and open new cafes across London this year, although none of the staff from the original Taylor St Baristas is being kept on.
It all sounds suitably sordid. As Eater London reports:
A barista at Taylor Street and a second source close to the company have told Eater that since Wednesday, shops are being directed to serve Black Sheep sourced and roasted coffee out of Taylor Street branded bags, contravening the ethos of the original brand, as well as the operating license agreement signed with Black Sheep. This has led a large number of staff members, including the entire staff at the Bank and St Pauls cafes, to resign.
I wasn’t sure that this little section of the Roundup really had legs when I first introduced it. I mean, could there really be a weekly supply of big coffee-related companies acting all green and ethical while they continue asset-stripping the natural world for venal profit?
Haha, how idealistic and naive I was back there four or five weeks ago.
I must have forgotten about Nestlé. There’s always Nestlé.
“One of our big themes is recycling,” said Nestlé boss Mark Schneider about Nespresso pods in an interview with CNBC’s Jim Cramer. “There’s lots of uses where aluminum can have a useful second life for consumers and we have been a pioneer in recycling schemes for aluminum.”
Great. Good for you, Mark. If you can get people to actually return the capsules instead of throwing them in the trash, that is. And that doesn’t really help the billions and billions of pods already sitting in landfills around the world, or floating about in the ocean.
Well, not quite, but a lot of caffeine definitely puts a strain on the ol’ ticker, causing heightened blood pressure and heart rhythm disturbances.
All this to say, don’t overdo it on the caffeine, friends. And maybe put down that third can of THUNDER or RATKICKER or whatever they’re calling those abominations nowadays.
I'm the creator and writer of The Pourover. Based in Scotland, I have over a decade of experience in the specialty coffee industry as a barista, roaster, and writer. Ask me about coffeewashing.